Maybe you live in a colder climate, and the current weather conditions aren’t necessarily conducive to spending an hour in the elements washing your car. Maybe you live in an apartment complex and don’t have access to a hose bib. They are an excellent cleaning tool in situations where access to water is limited. They are meant, in appropriate situations, to take the place of a hose & bucket wash – hence the name. A waterless wash is typically a sprayable solution that is designed to safely break down and clean moderately dirty painted surfaces. Let’s start by determining what a waterless wash is. In this post we want to arm you with the knowledge necessary to make the correct assessment and help you choose the right tools for when your car or truck needs a quick re-fresh. ![]() With the stakes so high, you certainly want to take the proper precautions and determine when/how to use a waterless wash safely & effectively. You’re potentially dragging dirt & grime across your paint and by doing so you may be digging in shine-killing swirls & scratches. There’s a lot to be skeptical about, especially when you consider the consequences. These are just a few of the questions we get asked when it comes to the topic of waterless wash solutions, and we get it. “When is it safe to use a waterless wash?” “What’s the difference between a waterless wash and a quick detailer?” “Should I just pull out the hose & bucket?” We know, we know! A waterless wash?! “Won’t that scratch my paint?” But what’s the best way to get it looking right again without having to break out the hose, bottles, tools, buckets, and re-doing all the hard work you just finished a few days ago? This is potentially a prime opportunity to employ a waterless wash. The car (or truck) isn’t filthy, but it definitely isn’t as clean as when you first finished the original detail. Once you got back home, you realized that you picked up a little bit of road dust, maybe even some water spots on the rocker panels from the puddle you tried to avoid, but still drove through anyway. You had a great time with friends/family, got lots of compliments on how clean your ride looked, maybe cruised around a bit after the show. If you follow these steps, you’ll be able to get plenty of years worth of use out of your wax to keep your car shiny and protected.Picture this - you did a full-blown detail on the car or truck last weekend, and then drove it to a Sunday morning cars & coffee event. Keep the wax in a tightly sealed container to keep it clean and prevent exposure to high humidity.Never let the wax melt, or again, it’ll lose some of it’s properties.Don’t store the wax in an environment that’s too cold, or close to freezing temperatures or the chemical properties will change and it’ll lose some of it’s protective properties.The temperature fluctuations will cause the product to degrade much faster. Never store a wax or sealant outside or in a garage or shed that isn’t temperature controlled.Store the wax between 40-77 degrees Fahrenheit (5-25 degrees Celcius).It’s not complicated and it’s easy to do, so make sure you follow these rules for storing waxes and sealants. The best way to make your wax stay fresh for longer is to store it properly. Now unless you’re a professional detailer who uses the same wax on every single car, you’re unlikely to use all the wax up before it starts to deteriorate. With older waxes, these properties will usually be weakened.Ī lot of waxes, particularly those in a paste format, come in such a large quantity, that you may be able to get hundreds of applications out of it before you run out. This tends to be more of an issue with sealants, which are known for their UV protection and water repellent properties. ![]() You can also start to lose some of the protective properties. A wax that may have lasted 3 months when you first bought it, may only stay on your car for a month if it’s a few years old. ![]() So if you’re using an older wax, keep in mind that you may need to apply it more often than you would have done when you first bought it. Things like dirt, rain and washing will take it’s toll more on an older wax, causing it to degrade more quickly. This means it will break down more quickly. Older waxes don’t tend to last as long on the finish because the separation process that occurred in the tin, will also occur to some extent on the paintwork. However, once this separation process occurs, the wax will lose some of it’s durability once applied to the car. Of course, if you work the wax a little bit with the applicator, you can get it to re-mix, so it applies nice and evenly. As opposed to a homogeneous mixture when it was first made. This means that you can get an oily layer on the top of the tin, and a harder paste underneath. So what actually happens when you use an old wax, and how does it change over time?
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